This blog was first published by Chapel Hill Magazine.
Honeysuckle sorbet is one of the many signature dishes that
makes Crook’s Corner a Chapel Hill landmark. Developed by Chef Bill Smith from
a Renaissance-era recipe for jasmine ice, the delicate flavor of this decadent
slush inspires near riots in the West Franklin Street eatery every spring.
Smith’s fuss-free recipe is easy to recreate at home, and it
converts nicely into a simple but intoxicatingly fragrant jelly. Indeed, the
ingredients are nearly identical, with the exception of added low-sugar pectin
and canning jars instead of an ice-cream machine.
The Crook’s-inspired Honeysuckle Jelly below is easily tweaked
to create a jewel-toned strawberry variation – which no doubt would be insanely
good made instead with sun-warmed wild blackberries, which just happen to grow
amid Smith’s preferred honeysuckle patch. Either way, the recipes are so simple
and reliable that they were used to teach a first-time canner how to make
jelly.
Smith prefers to pick honeysuckles in the evening, when
their perfume is heavy, but concedes he’s had delicious results with flowers plucked
dewy-fresh is the morning, too. An ideal time is after a rain, when older
blooms have shaken loose, leaving the best pickings behind.
The honeysuckles used to make these jellies were gathered
along the greenway of our North Raleigh neighborhood, but they can be found in
plentiful supply along roadsides and other places where weeds thrive. Be
careful to choose bushes that have not been chemically treated, and ask
permission as appropriate.
You’ll likely observe a lot of variation – some flowers are
pure white to the stem while others reveal a tender blush of pink, and the
petals will range from white to buttery yellow. Avoid ones that are dark yellow
or shriveled as they may be bitter, and for goodness sake, don’t bother
pinching off the tiny green bases.
“Some people think I actually do that at the restaurant, or
use just the stamens because that’s their childhood experience with
honeysuckles,” Smith says with a chuckle. “If I did that, I’d never get around to
making anything.”
Honeysuckle Jelly
4 cups (tightly packed buy not smashed) honeysuckle flowers,
leaves and stems discarded
5 cups cool water
1 package low-sugar pectin (such as Sure-Jell in the pink box)
3 cups sugar
½ tsp. unsalted butter
1 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
Speck of cinnamon
5 cups cool water
1 package low-sugar pectin (such as Sure-Jell in the pink box)
3 cups sugar
½ tsp. unsalted butter
1 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
Speck of cinnamon
Prepare a dozen 4-ounce jelly jars (or comparable
assortment) according to USDA
guidelines.
Place the flowers in a nonreactive container (glass or
stainless steel) and cover with cool water. Weight down with a plate. Sit on
counter overnight or at least 8 hours. Drain mixture through a jelly bag or
cheesecloth-lined colander. Measure 4½ cups honeysuckle stock; discard blooms.
In a deep, heavy-bottom pot – I use a pasta pot – pour in
stock and add package of pectin and ¼ cup sugar. Over medium-high heat, stir until
sugar and pectin are fully incorporated. Stirring often, add butter and bring
mixture to a rolling boil that cannot be stirred down.
When at a full bubble, add the rest of the sugar all at
once, plus the lemon juice and cinnamon. Stir frequently until mix returns to a
rolling boil that cannot be stirred down. Use a timer or count off 60 seconds.
Transfer pot to heatproof surface.
If necessary, skim any foam with a tight mesh strainer.
Carefully pour hot jelly into prepared jars, top with warmed lids and finger-tighten
screw-on bands. Place jars in water bath and boil for about 10 minutes. Turn
off heat and let the jars settle for about 5 minutes, then carefully remove and
set on a heatproof surface where they can remain undisturbed until cooled and
set.
Don’t worry if the jelly does not set quickly. It should
firm up nicely by the next day, but if it doesn’t, fear not. You can now boast
of having made amazing honeysuckle syrup, great in cocktails or drizzled on
desserts. If you’re daring, you can even dab a drop behind your ears.
2 cups fresh strawberries, coarsely chopped
5 cups water
Add strawberries to water in a medium sauce pan and bring to
a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Remove from heat
and cool to room temperature. Drain through jelly bag or cheesecloth-lined
colander and discard remaining strawberry mush.
From this point on, continue as described in the original
Honeysuckle Jelly Recipe, substituting 5 cups of strawberry water for plain water.
Amazing.
ReplyDeleteI made the sorbet just once about 5 years ago, and people are still raving. I just started canning in January, and I see now my honeysuckle vines will have no flowers left this year after I'm done with them.
I have the problem of no matter how much petin I use. My honey suckle jelly never ever sets. What gives??
ReplyDelete
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