Jean Anderson will participate in Fearrington Village's "Cooks and Books" series at 1 p.m. Thursday, Nov. 15. For information or to purchase tickets, call 919-542-3030.
Jean Anderson is one of the Triangle’s most prolific cookbook
writers. She’s earned several prestigious James Beard and International
Association of Culinary Professionals awards for her wide-ranging work. And
when she leaves her Chapel Hill home to sign books or oversee a feast featuring
her recipes, she attracts crowds of breathless devotees.
Anderson greets fans warmly, but she is as famously reticent
to talk about her own books as she is to have her photo taken. Of the handsome
new reissue of her 1976 Preserving Guide by UNC Press, she shared
only that “a particular fave of mine” in the 100-recipe collection is Yellow
Squash Pickles, which she termed a “Raleigh recipe.”
UNC Press hails the work, a groundbreaking volume for its
time, as a classic of the “back-to-the-land movement.” The original edition was
named by New York Times food writer Craig Claiborne
to his list of books for the well-chosen cookbook library.
Still beloved by seasoned canners, it finds a welcome place today
in the abundance of preserving titles on bookstore shelves. It’s even revered by
nouveau leaders such as Sean Timberlake, founder of the online canning community
Punk Domestics.
“In recent years,
the topic of canning and preserving has enjoyed a huge renaissance, as new
generations discover the joy of learning the nearly forgotten craft of putting
food by,” said Sean Timberlake said. “A wealth of books has bubbled up in the
wake of this trend, many quite beautiful and interesting. But Jean Anderson's Preserving Guide stands among a canon of
never-fail go-to volumes that canners of all ages and skill levels turn to for
clear, no-nonsense information. It truly is a foundational work, one without
which today's trend-forging books could never be.”
Jean Anderson (undated) |
Virginia Willis,
author of Basic
to Brilliant, Y’All, agreed. She said the reissue will find a welcome
place on her bookshelf.
“I love to conserve and preserve and have sought out past issues of
canning guides, but I’ve yet to
find the much-praised original edition,” Willis said. “Jean Anderson’s Preserving Guide is a thorough guide to old-fashioned canning and preserving recipes.
It's straightforward and clear with no-nonsense instruction. It's like your
favorite Southern aunt is in the kitchen - admittedly teaching her favorites.”
One word of caution: With the exception of a new introduction
by the author, the text is unchanged from its 1976 debut,
when it was first published as the Green
Thumb Preserving Guide. Anderson maintains her confidence in the
paraffin-sealed canning method she learned from her mother and aunt – it “has
never failed me,” she writes, adding later that she “recommends only what I
consider to be the best ways of conserving” fruits and vegetables.
As such, Preserving
Guide is not entirely consistent with contemporary USDA standards. Home
canners with process questions, especially novices, can check USDA recommendations
posted online and make simple tweaks if needed.
Anderson’s enduring influence is keenly felt by cutting-edge chef
Paul Virant, whose book The Preservation Kitchen was
released early this year. He credits Anderson with helping to “launch my career
to can, with confidence and enthusiasm.
“The Preserving Guide continues to influence my style of cooking, which
has made preservation the main focus of my restaurants, Vie and Perennial
Virant,” said the Chicago-based chef.
Anderson writes that her tart and
crunchy Cranberry and Almond Conserve “is especially good with roast turkey,
chicken, duck and goose, venison, pork ham and lamb” – making it a welcome
addition to virtually any holiday table.
Cranberry
and Almond Conserve
Reprinted
from Preserving Guide by Jean Anderson, © UNC Press (2012).
2 medium-sized oranges, halved, seeded
and chopped fine (rind, pulp and all)
Grated rind of 1 lemon
1 quart water
3 cups granulated sugar
3 cups firmly packed light brown sugar
2 quarts cranberry, stemmed
½ cup seedless raisins
½ cup dried currants
1¼ cups chopped blanched almonds
Places oranges, lemon rind and water
in a large, heavy enameled or stainless steel kettle, set over moderately high
heat and boil uncovered for 25 minutes or until run in tender.
Meanwhile, was and sterilize 8
half-pint preserving jars and their closures; keep closures and jars immersed
in separate kettles of simmering water until you are ready to use them.
When rind is tender, add granulated
and brown sugars to kettle and as soon as they are dissolved, stir in
cranberries, raisins and currants. Let the mixture come slowly to the boil, then
boil hard, uncovered, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, 5 minutes. Mix
in almonds. Continue boiling rapidly and stirring 5 to 10 minutes longer until
mixture is thick and jelly-like (about 220 degrees F on a candy thermometer).
Ladle boiling hot into hot jars,
filling to within 1/8” of the tops. Wipe jar rims and seal jars. Process for 10
minutes in a simmering water batch (185 degrees F). Remove
from water bath … and cool to room temperature. Check seals, then label and
store on a cook, dark, dry shelf.
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